Saturday, May 25, 2013

How Old Are You?

Last night, a village friend told me about his great-grandmother who died a few years ago at 140 years old. His grandmother, he said, is 100 and his mother is 70. I naturally found this hard to believe, especially since his mother would have thus been 52 years old when she gave birth to her youngest child.

These astronomical claims of age are quite common in Benin. Another friend was unimpressed when I told her about a 94-year-old grandmother in the US; she said her husband's grandmother lived to be 120. One of my colleagues prints memorial t-shirts for people who have died, and it is not common to see t-shirts for couples where the wife died at 110 and the husband at 120. The televised obituaries are also full of centenarians. In western Benin, I even saw a tombstone claiming that the deceased had died at 242 years old!

In reality, most Beninese, especially the older generations, have no clue when they were born. To determine a person's age, you just eyeball it: that person looks really old, so he must be 100! Hence, they chronically overestimate their age. That must be even easier to do when everyone else is claiming to be 120.

These days, however, children and young adults often know their real age because births are now recorded and birth certificates are issued. Some children who started school late or fell behind even have fake birth certificates with fake ages to allow them to pass school completion exams that are normally capped at a certain age.

Still, even though births are supposed to be registered, every week I weigh babies with no date of birth recorded in their health booklets (which is a problem since I use a malnutrition chart that compares weight to age). When I ask the mother to tell me her child's date of birth, she often does not know. Sometimes she can estimate, saying that the child is two weeks old or two months old, but often we have to proceed by using holidays as landmarks. Was your child born before or after Christmas? Was your child born before or after Tabaski? Was your child born before or after Ramadan?

As you can imagine, birthdays are not significant here since few people know when they were born. Even one of my friends who does know her date of birth told me that as a Muslim, she does not celebrate her birthday. And the one birthday that is celebrated every year as a national holiday, that of the Prophet Mohammed, changes dates each year since it is based on the lunar calendar. Of course, Christmas (Jesus' birth) is also a national holiday, and it is always celebrated on December 25.

In any case, maybe I should just take it as par for the course that the few Beninese people who have estimated my age pegged me for older than I actually am. Still, it feels somewhat remarkable because Americans chronically underestimate how old I am. Or maybe I am just aging dramatically! I should use more sunscreen...

Monday, May 20, 2013

Mango Season

As the end of the hot season approaches (I hope!), I am enjoying the one major perk that this season has to offer: mangoes. When mangoes started coming out a couple of months ago, they were expensive: five cents a piece for small ones, and as much as 60 cents for the biggest ones. Today, however, mangoes are so ubiquitous that I simply cannot understand why some people continue to pay for them. Mango trees are everywhere, so if you do not personally have one, your family and friends surely will.

I have been given many mangoes from friends and colleagues, and I have also been bringing mangoes back from the mango tree at the volunteer house in Kandi. Last Sunday, I brought back 60 or so mangoes, another 30 on Thursday, and yesterday's haul netted me more than 40. I have been taking advantage of the abundance of mangoes to try various mango preservation techniques: mango sauce, dried mangoes, jam, etc.

Of course, I have been eating plenty of mangoes the normal way as well. On many days, I eat nothing but mangoes until dinner. While I can comfortably eat ten mangoes in a sitting, last week I learned the hard way (ie, vomiting) that 13 is too many at one time.

Now, before you mango lovers out there get too jealous, remember that this abundance of mangoes only comes during the hot season. In Sonsoro, that still means temperatures in the 110s with no electricity and thus no A/C, no fans, no cold drinks, and no ice cubes. But plenty of delicious mangoes.

A mango tree
The morning's haul

My homemade mango jam


A mango smoothie, courtesy of the volunteer house blender in Kandi