It's Official!

Today, after 2.5 months of training, my fellow trainees and I were officially sworn in as Peace Corps volunteers at the ambassador's residence. I will leave Dangbo tomorrow at 5:30 am and should be in my new house in Sonsoro by nightfall.

Per the Beninese tradition for celebrations, all of the health trainees had their swear-in outfits made from the same fabric.

The volunteer in the middle is wearing a traditional Peuhl outfit. Such clothing is common in Sonsoro because Baribas and Peuhls are the two major ethnic groups there.

A Weighty Issue

A few weeks ago, my host mom confronted me with a problem that has been weighing on her heavily: I have lost weight since arriving in Dangbo. This has become a subject of conversation in the village and has prompted some villagers to suggest that my family hasn't been taking good care of me. In the Beninese mind, being heavy is associated with well-being, so losing weight is an indication that my family is not doing a good job. Since the villagers have observed that most of the other Americans have been gaining weight nicely, my weight loss tarnishes my family's reputation.

My host mom has been pleading with me to eat more and has offered to buy me any food I desire. Since she knows I like tapioca, one of my first dinners after our talk was a large quantity of tapioca. For the same reason, I have been given lots of fruit. I have declined to tell them that fruit is not particularly effective for weight gain.

My host mom's general strategy is to feed me more, more, more. I am usually given a quantity of food that would be suitable for two or three people. Every time I clear the table, I have to face my host mom's disappointment over how much I ate. No matter what I eat, it is never enough. My family harps on it so much that I have turned their favorite complaints into an English lesson, teaching my sister to say, "Alexandra doesn't eat well. Alexandra doesn't eat enough. She eats like a baby."

I got in trouble again last night for foiling my family's plans to fatten me up. My family gave me two bananas when I got home at 5, then a full plate of rice and beans for a "snack". I only ate half, earning my host mom's disappointment. At 8, we ate tapioca; my portion was three times the standard serving. The tapioca was followed by another banana and a chapoti. By this point, I was full, but in my family's mind, I hadn't eaten dinner yet. I warned my host sister that I wasn't hungry for dinner, but she pushed me to eat it anyway. I declined, knowing that even if I tried to cram a little extra food in, my family would still be upset that I hadn't eaten more.

And so the battle continues: my host family versus my stomach. While I have been hoping my stomach will win, sometimes I wonder if I should just surrender.

Y-O-V-O

I wrote these lyrics for today's Peace Corps talent show. This song is sung to the tune of "YMCA".

Young man, there's no need to feel down.
I said, young man, pick yourself off the ground.
I said, young man, 'cause you're in a new town
There's no need to feel unhappy.

Young man, when you live in Dangbo,
Also if you are in Porto-Novo,
There's a name there that the locals will say
Every time you pass by their way.

They're gonna call you a Y-O-V-O.
Bonsoir, ca va to you, Y-O-V-O.
Though you have a real name, it means nothing to them
'Cause whenever they see your skin...

They're gonna call you a Y-O-V-O.
Donne-moi cadeau, you rich Y-O-V-O.
You can tell them to stop, you can throw a big fit,
But it will not change things one bit.

Young man, are you listening to me?
I said, young man, who do you want to be?
Doesn't matter, to them we're all the same.
They don't need to know your real name.

No man picks his own name himself.
I said, young man, put your pride on the shelf
'Cause you'll never change the name that they say.
You've got to let them have their way.

Just let them call you a Y-O-V-O.
No point denying it, Y-O-V-O.
Put your wishes aside and accept it today
'Cause it ain't gonna go away.

Shout it out loud and proud: Y-O-V-O.
Rejoice in it aloud, Y-O-V-O.
If you're called a yovo as you walk down the street,
Just respond gladly, "Yep, that's me."

Young man, I was once in your shoes.
I said, I was ready to blow a fuse.
I felt no one cared to call me by name
As if all white folks were the same.

That's when someone came up to me
And said, young man, you're as stressed as can be.
You must accept your new reality.
Take pride in this identity.

Embrace it, now you're a Y-O-V-O.
Just face it, now you're a Y-O-V-O.
Lift your arms up in joy and welcome your new fate.
Don't deny it, don't hesitate.

Y-O-V-O. I love to say I'm a Y-O-V-O.

Video: Voodoo and Vaccines in Benin

This video is a good introduction to my life in Benin. Most of it is filmed in Dangbo, so you can see the village as well as the local dress, dance, etc. The film also gives a taste of the work I will do. You can see what a Beninese health center looks like and learn about vaccinations. In Sonsoro, I will be working to increase participation in the vaccination program and to educate mothers about its importance, and this video discusses both those subjects

The video is at least a year old, so apparently some of the information in it about access to vaccines is no longer accurate.

Photos: Sonsoro

The Sonsoro Health Center. This is where I will be working every day in my village.

The delivery room. Most women give birth on the white metal table on the left. The babies are cleaned and prepped on the counter on the right.

This is the child and maternal health room where children are vaccinated, pregnant women get pre-natal check-ups, and sick children and pregnant women are treated. This is where I will spend most of my time in Sonsoro.

This is my colleague from the health center with his four children (his wife declined to be photographed since she is pregnant).

Mailing Address

I now have a mailing address! Should anyone be inclined to write, this is where you can send a letter:

My Name
Corps de la Paix
BP 126
Kandi, Benin
West Africa

Any mail would be greatly appreciated, and I will certainly write back to anyone who writes me.


In case anyone is feeling ambitious, here are some special notes on packages:
- Only send padded envelopes (boxes are slower and may be subject to fees in Benin)
- Send via USPS
- NEVER send DHL (there is a $200 DHL fee here)
- Writing "Dieu te regarde" or other religious messages on the envelope can help prevent theft

Guessing Game: What Are These Things?

Item 1: What is this?

Item 2: What are these?

Item 1: Not a potato, it's a fruit! The closer you get to the center, the more it tastes like caramel.

Item 2: It's a Beninese toothbrush. You chew one end until it flattens and softens; that end should become somewhat like a stiff paintbrush. Then you use it to brush your teeth.